ABOUT THE AZORES

The Azores, an autonomous region of Portugal, is an archipelago chain in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean. It has been nicknamed “the Hawai’i of the Atlantic”, and being from Hawai’i, I must say the landscapes, scenery and costal tropical terrain did remind me of Hawai’i (except with charming European culture and flair).

I was unaware of these islands until a few years ago, I googled “Surfing in Portugal”, and the Azores popped up. Ever since then, I tagged it on my “to-do” wish list and finally paid a visit this past September.

São Miguel is considered the main island of the 9-island chain, as it is the largest and most populated of the islands, and has a wide variety of things to do and see. Below I’ll take you through a visual tour of the viewpoints and places I visited on my 5-day trip to São Miguel Island.

Accommodation

During my trip, I stayed at Santa Barbara Eco Beach Hotel and Pedras do Mar Resort and Spa. If you are deciding between these two hotels on the northern coast, here’s my review: while Santa Barbara Eco Beach Hotel was beautiful with a modern artisan wood feel, and direct access to the popular surfing beach, Praia de Santa Barbara, I much preferred Pedras do Mar Resort and Spa. At Pedras do Mar I found the staff to be very friendly, welcoming, and service oriented. The hotel was modern, the rooms were clean and nice with an ocean view, and desk service was available at all hours. They are a well-oiled machine offering greater value for a lower price than Santa Barbara Eco Beach.

Also, I happen to despise flies, and there were flies everywhere at Santa Barbara Eco Beach Hotel - in the communal hang out area, the dining area, and especially in our room. I asked the front desk if there was anything they could do anything to get rid of the flies infesting our room, but they said it’s inevitable during this time of year which happened to be “fly season”. I probably killed at least 40 flies each night, whipping them with my towel. No one wants flies landing on their nose or buzzing in your ear while trying to sleep at night! In case you’re wondering, I had no issues with flies anywhere else on the island, not one fly at the hotel down the road.

Alternatively, there are plenty of hotel options also in Ponta Delgada which could be a really convenient place to stay - while a busier town, there are plenty of good restaurants and shops right in Ponta Delgada within walking distance, versus the more sparse rural areas and towns outside of Ponta Delgada. Staying at an AirBnb is also an option, although I didn’t go that route.

Sete Citades - Miradouro da Grota do Inferno

Sete Citades are the famous twin lakes of the Azores, which are situated in the crater of a dormant volcano. Miradouro da Grota do Inferno (Miradouro means “viewpoint” in English) was the most impressive viewing spot to see the lakes, and the most impressive view in São Miguel, in my opinion. So much so that I went back a second time before leaving the island! The location of this viewpoint can be found on Google Maps here.

The weather on the island is very fickle and can change by the minute, so I recommend going to your top scenic locations at the beginning of your trip so that if the weather doesn’t cooperate, you can always go back another time or day during your trip.

Insider tip for Miradouro da Grota do Inferno - as you arrive to the site on the main road coming from Ponta Delgada, there will be a parking lot on your left. Instead of parking there, turn right onto the dirt driveway and drive all the way down which will take you to the small parking lot closest to the entrance of the viewpoint.

Sete Citades at SUNSET

Before the end of my trip, I returned to Miradouro da Grota do Inferno to view the lakes at sunset. It was a cloudy day but I was lucky enough to get some rays of light through the clouds shining down into the lake. As you can see, different weather conditions can greatly affect the look of the craters and lakes - and you can really find beauty in all conditions.

Miradouro da Vista do Rei

Miradouro da Vista do Rei is another stunning viewpoint from which you can see the twin lakes of Sete Citades. One lake is uniquely green and the other is blue due to the different ecological makes of the lakes. The colors are so vibrant when the sun comes out - this photo below is not color edited at all!

PONTA DA FERARRIA - NATURAL OCEAN THERMAL BATH

There are several different hot springs on the island, but Ponta da Ferarria is incredibly unique in that is a natural thermal hot spring in the ocean - basically it’s where a hot spring meets the ocean (such a cool phenomenon!). While in the cold Atlantic ocean where you normally would need a light wetsuit to keep warm, you can go in your European swim trunks and bikinis as this thermal bath is very warm (and can be very hot at low tide). Only 20 minutes from the center of Sete Citades, I recommend visiting Ferarria on the same day. The parking location for this hot springs can be found on Google Maps here.

MOSTEIROS

Just 15 minutes north of Ferarria is the beautiful black sand beach, Mosteiros. This peaceful expansive stretch of beach, looking out at the iconic rocks in the ocean, is a great location to lay a towel on the sand and watch the sunset.

Lagoa do Fogo

Lagoa do Fogo is another beautiful lake which is located in the middle of São Miguel Island, less than 10 minutes from Caldeira Velha hot springs. Miradouro da Lagoa do Fogo, found on the map here, is the best viewpoint to view Lagoa do Fogo from. You can walk all the way down to sea level of the lake from here, and take a stroll around the lake. Miradouro Da Barrosa, a short walk or drive up the road, is another beautiful vantage point that gives you a 360 degree view to the opposite side of the island if you explore to the top of the hill. I suggest going a couple hours before sunset, as the lighting is magical there.

FURNAS and Poça da dona beija (hot spring)

Furnas was possibly my favorite town in São Miguel. It’s a small quaint town built amongst green, jungley surroundings. I’d also note that Poça da Dona Beija, the hot spring there, was my favorite hot spring of the three hot springs I visited on the island. It was beautifully landscaped with hanging willow trees and enormous lush tropical plants surrounding the springs. It was very relaxing and not too crowded there. It felt like an oasis; I could have spent most of the day there. There are also free showers on site where you can rinse off after the springs, as well as bathrooms.

Nordeste AND Miradouro do Sossego

Miradouro do Sossego is on the far east of the island. It’s a bit of a drive along a windy road to get to, but I loved the charming, rural, slow-paced vibe of that region and town of Nordeste. If you have the time, I definitely recommend taking the time to make the scenic costal drive out to Nordeste and Miradouro do Sossego.

RIBeira dos Caldeiros

On the drive back from Nordeste is a Nature park called Parque Natural da Ribeira dos Caldeirões. It entails just a quick walk through the garden and waterfall that can take less than 5 minutes, but a nice pit stop from Nordeste.

Caldeira Velha (Hot Springs)

Caldeira Velha is a nature preserve with lush vegetation, a small waterfall, hot springs, and showers to rinse off the sulfur after your warm bath. You can find the location by searching “Monumento Natural da Caldeira Velha” on Google maps. It is only 10 minutes from the viewpoint of Lagoa do Fogo, so I suggest doing these two activities on the same day.

SURFING

There are plenty of surf spots on the north, south, and even west coast of São Miguel. One of the most popular surf spots on São Miguel is Praia de Santa Barbara. Although I am no longer a fearless surfer, the ocean always calls me and I had had to at least paddle out while I was on this island known for surfing. Can you spot me? It was quite windy that day and not the ideal conditions for surf, but it was energizing to paddle out to a foreign spot in the crisp Atlantic Ocean!

Chá Gorreana

Chá Gorreana Tea Factory is the oldest, and currently only tea plantation in Europe. They serve samples of their own hot and iced tea, and allow you to walk through the tea plantation at your own leisure. Worth paying a visit if you have time.

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